Elevator Stab - Part 2

Riveting
The clecos were remove in alternative pairs then rivets inserted after chasing with #30 drill as required, no issues were encountered. Riveting began at the center of the front spar moving towards one end and down each rib to the rear spar as each rib was passed. The first rib was riveted about 50% then to the next rib. The next rib was riveted 50% the the first completed. Finally the lower spar was riveted with the counter sunk rivets at the nose last. These were done from the front spar up to the nose using a similar pattern.

The whole purpose of the procedure was to assist the skin to finding its original home, necessary - who knows but it made me feel better.

Fiberglass Fairings
The aluminium strip for mounting are now inserted under the dimpled holes in the skin and match drilled with the #30 drill. They were removed, primed and reinserted after the primer was dry.

These should have been dimpled and inserted with the skins so there was concern if there would be a good fit but the soft aluminium provided with the kit, combined with the raw power of the battery pop riveter ensured a tight fit.

The fairings were refitted, aligned and taped into position and using the same techniques to mark and install that were outlined in the top faring blog for the rudder. 

No sanding was required fitted as supplied from the factory.

Cover Plate
The factory supplied cover plate was refitted to the factory mounting holes and the others matched drilled with a #30 drill using the cover as a template. The cover was removed and all holes enlarged to 4.8 mm to accept the M4 short rivet nuts. The hand riveter was a struggle at this size but all were inserted with no drama's. The holes in the cover were enlarged to 4.5 mm for ease assembly.

Note: The cover plate provides access to the AN3 nuts and washers used to secure the mounting straps and for major inspections.

Footnote
The whole assembly went together as per the drawings and no issues were encountered.

The elevator mounting frame shown in Part 1 worked well during for the riveting, placing the this builder at a good height either standing or seated as required. The electric pop riveter proved to be the ideal tool - lots of power and only noisy when required.

The dimples formed using the basic dimpling tool gave good result at assembly for my purposes - only wish they would provide more nails as they are hard to match in Au.