Painting

Comment

Painted, at last, Painted at last.........!! 

When he awakes, tell him there are a few items 

to be still to be painted ..!!

Painting Markings

This blog covers the aircraft's war paint

Overview

Camouflage Details

One of the first issues encountered was identifying the colours used on the markings and regardless of how much searching no commercial standard could be identified, unlike the main colours. After discussing this with the paint supplier it was decided to use the BS381C standard and find colours that were as close as practical. With that decided an order was placed for the six [6] different colours that had to be used.

Dark Earth - BS381 350 plus 22.5 K73 per liter {match to Vaellio Model Paints]

Forest Green - BS381 241

Duck Egg Green [Eu de Nil] BS381 216

Underside - Duck Egg Green BS381C

Roundel Blue - Roundel Blue BS381C 110

White - Pure White W351

Bold Red - BS381C 564

Canary Yellow - BS381C 309

Lt Aircraft Grey - BS381 627

Black - Satin Black K73

An issue that had to be resolved was the orange peel from applying 2K clear to the port wing. After completing this task it was decided that a coat of base should be re-applied but it crinkled everywhere it contacted any clear that remained, a quick read showed that this is a no-no. 

The problem had to be resolved by stripping back the wing but it was now clear that all base colour would have to be applied before attempting to apply the 2K clear.

As an attempt to control weight it has been decided to use vinyl film and spray paint for the roundels and tri-colour. A low tack vinyl was selected and were cut after producing the necessary graphics using the sketch above to obtain the correct proportions allowing all these profiles to be masked up in one operation.

After the airframe and wings were in undercoated, the vinyl is applied after the relevant colours applied by removing the relevant mask, finally when each colour was dry each mask was reapplied to complete that marking. 

Applying these decals is a skill but the use of clean water with a solid squirt of washing detergent is a must. They were floated into position and massaged into their correct location. 

Disposable towels are used to remove excess water with particular attentions paid to edges to ensure they are as tight as possible. The large decals we all cut into manageable segments for this task as they cannot be handled as a single unit.

Generally, I started with the dominant colour blue, next a white after applying a light coat of primer, then finally the red. The side was the same except started with the yellow and primer as required. Finally the tail tri-colour was just applied in order as seen in the photos

With the first mask reapplied a rattle pack off primer, high build used to lightly cover [tone down]  then the area for red was  applied and once dry the mask applied.

Particular attention was paid to the gaps that created by segmenting the decal, it is impossible to create a perfect profile match as they distort on application especially over rivets.

At this point, the Earth was applied, then Forest Green with the pattern marked out at the start using the diagrams above. All the outlines were marked using the Earth and the gun on its tightest pattern.

Comment

It is just one big learning curve

Painting Wings

Preparation

With the wings off to fit the tanks and tidy up all those small details and the decision was made to paint the underside of both in Duck Egg Green. The first task was to remove the fibreglass tops and mask up the wheel well, tips and other items requiring protection.

The wing was moved under a 6 x 3-meter gazebo, with the sides closed the wing, next, a thorough check as made and all those overclocked tasks were resolved and finally, the whole service was cleaned using water/detergent and 3M Ultra Fine sanding Pads and dried with paper towels. Both undersides were wiped using lint-free towels with wax and grease remover and wiped with the same then finally with a tack cloth.

Four [4] small blowers were mounted onto a work table to help extract fumes and overspray, it was decided to use smaller blowers as if a large set of fans were used it would mean lots of air coming in creating the need for filters.

An Apolo 5 stage turbine sprayer was selected for a number of reasons,

The first one being as I am 100% dependent on solar and thus have limited power for a large compressor. Another reason was they produce very little overspray due to the low pressures used and they warm the air helping to dry it for spraying. A  full-face mask was purchased to spray all the 2K products along with a mask/filter for the undercoats and base.

Personal Up Skilling

The internet is a good source of information but it has to be filtered, listed below were two key pieces of information that helped me make a decision to pull the trigger. Many hours were spent looking and absorbing as much information but end the end its spraying that is the final judge of all the effort.

2k paints are thinner than water, the first coat is a 'dust coat' - it means just that, dust the paint on, do not attempt to cover the whole surface with paint with the gun. Since the paint is so thin, it will spread and evenly cover the surface. For the second coat, lay it on a tiny bit thicker. It is difficult to see how thick you're putting it on though. You'll find after the dust coat has had a few minutes to settle on the panel, it will form a solid colour and the dust effect will go away. This will now give you more surface area to cover with the second coat, hence needing more paint.

[The comment above was extracted from a painting forum and proved to be of great value]

Jake LeStrada "No Fool Zone"  was a personal mine of information on using an HVLP and was the final link to give me the courage to pull the trigger.

Painting

Concept Paints 103 etch primer was thinned 1:1 using approved thinners, strained into the paint pot and after test applications on paper was ready to apply to the wing. A light coat was applied. Next,, the whole area was scuffed with a 3M Ultra Fine Sanding Pads using water with detergent, this didn't remove the paint from the rivets like 600 grit would have thought it was used in some areas. Once done the final feel was smooth so the next step was to proceed with applying base colour.

No high build primer was applied to save weight - my gamble.

Once ready the Duck Egg Green basecoat was mixed 1: 1 using thinners supplied, strained into the paint pot and after test applications onto paper the first coat was applied. Though it looked OK there was a lot of orange peel and this was traced to operator error, to fix this, it was sanded over an afternoon.

With the next application, the thinners were increased slightly and the fan width narrowed from wide open. The gun was held at an angle of about 30 - 35 degrees to the wing surface with the rear fan nearly parallel tracking the spray line and the top side blending the previous pass. resulting in a smooth glossy even finish.

Note: Doing it again I would spray lengthwise on the wing to reduce overspray

This is an entirely different task as the paint required a catalyst and is mixed in a 2:1 ratio and it is potentially dangerous. For all paint 2K operations, the builder wore a full mask with external air supply supplied by a separate compressor, this is only required for the 2K.

At locations, where covers are to be installed are masked before painting to create a clear indicator to anyone that something is missing when final assembly is complete.

Finally, 2k Satin Clear was prepared in the same way and two light coats applied.

Comment
Painting, at last, painting at last.........!! 

The front leading edge of this aircraft was riveted using countersunk pop rivets as discussed with the factory in the early days, since that time the factory has gone all dome for a number of reasons but mainly from the experience gained from multiple airframes. My efforts we a mixed success with the primary issue being dimpling in place with a hand tool, doing this again I would have dome riveted along the rib line and countersunk rivets along the stringers to remove the visual intensity that creates.

The next task will be to have the signwriter to detail the underside of the wing to reinforce that military-style theme of the project along with the roundels and will be covered in a separate blog.

Camouflage Colours

This blogs cover the colour selection for the aircraft.

Overview
The scheme selected was the RAF display scheme for 2010 developed to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the Battle of Britain.

However, over time it was decided to change the unit it to represent a fallen Australian pilot. Looking for a suitable ace, I was taken by all the nobody's, by this I mean those who paid the ultimate price but were not aces, just casualties in a brutal campaign.

They seem to share a common theme, trying to live a life in the 64 hours that the situation they were in granted them to live. In the end, I settled on a Flight Sargent  Frank W Cale.

These men achieved a victory that ensured our democracy's lived on, they forever do not need names, they will always be "The Few" -  Lest we forget

Paint Scheme
The first task was to pick the colours, and after a lot of research BS450 Dark Earth, BS241 Dark Green and BS216 Eau de Nil [Duck Egg Green] was the most likely scheme worn in 1940 by Cales Spitfire.  The spinner will be painted Satin Black as will the top of the cowl.

The colours will be matched to a set produced by Vallejo for the model aircraft market.

Frank W Cale Spitfire Mk1 KIA 15th August 1940

It has been decided to reduce the amount of the advanced warning notices and paint as close as practical to a 1940 paint scheme.

Mock up of the final paint scheme

Comment
It good to dream

Painting Preparation

This blog covers the painting preparation and RAF camouflage scheme.

Overview
The RAF 2010 Battle of Britain colour scheme sent this builder down the road to create the Shorts T1 and a desire to give the Australian Tucano a linkage with the Australian pilot Walter Cale's story.

In the time from the original decision and a lot has run under this bridge, the scheme has been refined but was guided by the Battle of Brittian pattern.

The final decision was the selection for ID lettering, and belly colour between Duck Egg Green, Sky Blue and Grey with the Duck Egg Green to be the most likely applied to aircraft of the 266 Squadron in the Battle of Britain.

Another decision had to be made on the paint method, it was decided early that the aircraft was to be finished in a Satin, so base over clear was selected. 

This process requires a 1K primer, colour and finished using a 2K satin clear with a weight advantage as 1K is thinned 1:1 compared with 2K paint at 2:1

Next task was to obtain samples of the three colours required, Dark Green, Earth and Duck Egg Green. This was made possible with the popularity of plastic models for this era, a Vallejo Battle of Brittian paint pack will allow the base colours to be tinted with reasonable accuracy.

Hardware
The first issue to be solved was a spray booth and having spent enough time getting to this point I was not in the mood to build a spray booth. Three [3] 3 x 3-meter and one [1] 6 x 3- meter canopies were purchased and require being unpacking then folding out. Once in position over the aircraft, a plastic sheet will be fixed to the sides using a lot of 3M cloth tape.

How to apply the paint - big issue for a non-painter, the only way is a spray gun, but the decision was what was to provide the puff. A meeting with Larry Black at Frazier Lake in California, a long time ago revealed a very tidy Falco with a great finish. Larry used a turbine sprayer and as a skilled shooter was impressed by the lack of overspray and economy of application - 4 litres of paint to be exact and this meant saving weight, a lot of it.

Back in now, I decided that this is the way to go. The turbine sprayer has come a long way since Larry used one on the Falco, so which one. Well after a lot of web time I settled on an Apollo 5 stage Premier model - not cheap, but if in doubt get the biggest and best in the range, they charge more for a reason.

These units produce dry, warm air that should be free of water and other contaminants. The main gain is the lack of over overspray as the extraction is primitive, not a match for a spray booth. It is generally stated that a turbine should put better than 85% of the paint on the job when set up correctly.

Note: Once finished it is hoped to sell it for 60% of what it cost. 

Preparation
The first job which was done earlier involved filling around the rivets using applications of etching primer. Blade putty and a lot of careful and gentle sanding. Foam sanding block was used to create the control needed with a combination of 320/400 wet and dry. 

Sanding stopped when any rivet head or aluminium appeared, then a new sanding angle used until the whole area was smooth. The countersunk pop rivets are not as flush as I would have hoped with the primary reason the lack of ability to create a crisp dimple with a hand tool plus the operator's skill.

What was gained - not a lot but it does remove is that product of "Proletariat Tractor Factory No 3" look that an all riveted wing seems to have - its a choice with a lot of work attached to it.

Note: Primer in spray packs is the same type that will be sprayed

Wings filled and etch primed ready for the 
application of the sprayed primer

At this time the end ribs were primed using the SLS Etch spray as was the underside and mating faces of the inspection covers. Once dry, the overspray was removed using methylated spirits and paint thinners.

Note: Methylated Spirits proved to be a very effective remover of the Wattyl SLS Etch primer, and if you can have it with orange juice it cannot be all that harmful, can it?

All the covers were reinstalled using sacrificial screws to be disposed of after painting. 

Comment
Next job apply paint

Filling Rivets

This blog is this builder's final words on filling rivet heads, not sure that is is the best way, it is just a way. The final test will be when the paint is applied but the primer used currently worked correctly with no apparent issues but will be the biggest test. 

Overview
The decision to fill the rivets was one of just visual finish as explained in the previous blog on filling the rivets.

Installation
The first method tried was body filler, it proved difficult to fill the rivets due to the air trapped inside the stem creating hydraulic lock, West Systems 105 could be inserted using a syringe, but lacked viscosity and this was an issue not to mention the need for small batches as both types have to be catalyzed before use. The excess of West Systems was hard to remove, and the builder considers this not an option.

Next, automotive spot putty, while easy to inject with the syringe, once cured it proved not to bond into the rivet opening and popped out easily when trimming, so the failure rate was high.

In desperation, a waterbased acrylic filler was tried [No-More Gaps family], and this worked well in all locations and proved to trim easily with a sharp blade, but the builder was worried about the temperature that the wings would reach in the dark camouflage.

It was decided to try Parfix Urethane Sealer Adhesive, this proved to work well in all respects and would be used again at the start. 

The viscosity that gives it its useful properties creates an issue with the syringe keeping the needle on. Fitted the needle once as tightly as possible by winding it onto the syringe spigot and when not in use, inserted a length of safety wire and placed in the fridge.  

Filling the syringe was the other issue, drilled a 3 mm hole about halfway up the barrel, then filled to that hole before inserting the plunger as this allows the plunger to contact the filler providing a more accurate delivery.

Note: Prepare about four [4] syringes so if there are any issues replace it with a clean assembly

The urethane should be applied as outlined in the previous blog, then allowed to dry for a minimum of 24 hours; longer will be better. The reason is, while small in volume it's thick and therefore slow to cure. 


Additionally, Urethane could be used on rivets that had small dishes or imperfections by applying a light coat onto the existing adhesive and allowing it to fully cure and dressing with the foam adhesive pads.

A word of warning, clean all material that is inadvertently applied as this material requires mechanical removal when cured, have a top-grade thinner available with clean rags when applying. It would be best to wear disposable gloves as it sticks to the skin just as aggressively and is difficult to remove - guilty OK.

Note: A Dremel Motor Tool and 1200 grit foam pads were purchased in bulk a long time ago but came into their own for this task. The best technique was to run the foam side across the dome of the rivet with the body of the chuck placed on the skin with a tool speed of 8-9 thousand rpm. This helped prevent excess pressure, do not go above 10000 rpm as the abrasive action can be destructive.

Tools
Mini Drill 1200 grit grey abrasive pads were used sourced from Allied Express but keep the rev's down as they can shift metal in the higher rev range

A Dremel motor tool with the accessory extension shaft is a must-have for this job, in fact, it has proved invaluable for many tasks.

Comment
Be careful about what you chose to do...!

Looking back it would now it would take about 40 to 50 additional hours to fill and prepare the rivets for painting but to get here this time took a lot, a lot longer, but that is the underlying story of this build,. 

The finished look, however, made up somewhat for the lost time - just!

Oh, nice men have come with a new white coat, not my style though.

Rivets

This blog covers the filling and polishing of the rivet heads

Overview
More time has been spent  trying to find a quick method of filling rivet heads. While there are a number of clues to be found on the WWW it would be easier to join the Illuminati that find a definitive method.

Regardless most methods required some sort of epoxy was used so that is were the builder decided to start. This builder tried Plasti-Bond, two part epoxy [thick stuff] and West Systems initially.

Construction
A series rivet heads were filled using a mixture of West Systems Epoxy and slow cure hardener. These were mixed in small batches of about 8 cc with a pinch of blue chalk dust added for colour, this was found to be critical to allow you to see runs in artificial light. While a good number of nice rivet fills are achieved over fills were common with the inevitable runs. 

The best technique was inject the epoxy into the rivet opening with enough resin to form a mucus before moving to the next with the results varying from wonderful, to well a mess. 

A Black Duck

This worked well in the horizontal or near horizontal but for verticals the builder waited for the epoxy to thicken for the more horizontal rivets. 

Once cured the real work begins removing the waste. This was sliced / scraped off using a 18 mm box-cutter blade with the rear end best for scraping. 

Holding a 18 mm box cutter blade [it must be sharp] in two [2] hands, bend it using the base of the curve to slice the waste off then and finish rivets by polishing with a softened 800 grip wet and dry.

All these tasks require 110% from the person applying and removing the epoxy and that's just not possible for this little black duck...!

Note: softened paper by soaked in warm water and detergent until it just turns into a soft cloth like material. 

Alternative approach
Halfway through the fuselage there had to be a better method and the idea of using an acrylic sealant filler was examined. 

A syringe was filled with grey acrylic and a 1/2'' dosing needle fitted after grinding off the sloped opening. This was inserted and the acrylic injected slowly while moving the needle out, once reaching the opening swirling to create a cone like covering over the opening in the rivet - this is important to create a seal.

Note: Best profile is like a choc top on top of the rivet head

This material must be fully cured and this will take 24 hours and even better give it a week - firmer is better.

All the tops were removed using a curved blade as described previously. This may require a few passes to cut down to the top side of the rivet. 

Grind needle end square - Acrylic must
cover the full opening of rivet head plus a bit

If you have clean rivet tops this works well but in my case a number had rims formed by the tool and the blade could slice off the smaller once but the larger one's were removed with a Dremel fitted with a 120 grit click and lock sanding disc.

Note: Set the Dremel speed to about 10K and be very gentle using the outside edge applied at a slight angle to the rivet head








Comments
This may or may be a good method but it is quick and simple compared to using epoxy. One issue is temperature as Dark Green can reach temperatures nearly equal to a black and this will be critical on the top side of the wings. 

The acrylic is used on the fuselage is good for 70 - 80 C but a little investigation shows that Selleys 3 : 1 is rated at 90 C and this will be used in future.

Small scale tests show this combination it is happy to have acrylic primer and paint applied over it but this is a suck and see job. It will in the end be a good idea or a sea of tears - we shall see will we not.

War Paint

The "proper" Spitfire - Mk I, Summer 1940, Battle of Britain

        Colour references:

• Dark Earth (Humbrol HB2)
• Dark Green (Humbrol HB1)
• Sky (Humbrol HB5)
• Insignia Red (Humbrol HU153)
• Oxford Blue (Humbrol HU104)
• Insignia Yellow (Humbrol HU154) 
• Ensin White

266 Squadron Colours
I had not been able to determine with any accuracy the belly color applied to the 266 Squadrons Spitfires in August 1940  or if  Frank Cales Spitfire even had the single squadron prefix applied. The video link [0.41 sec] above supports the reply received from the RAF Museum that at that time most only carried the squadron marking.

The image above gives three [3] possibilities the sky green of the 2010 display aircraft to grey or sky blue. A chance viewing of a colour video called the Spitfire Documentary  [18.10 sec] showed that the under belly was most likely Sky Grey for a number of reason but put simply the weight saving from just applying Satin clear over grey etch primer has appeal.

The plan is to spray the underside grey etch primer then the top side in beige etch primer and finally the Earth and Green colour. 

One of the other issues is to obtain a soft edge and this will be tackled by applying string under the edge of the tape to hold it up and provide a round edge - reading has shown this works well in large scale models and if we regard the Tucano as a large stand off scale model, it should work.

At this time the use of decals for the roundels and tri color on the tail is an open issue.

This is not till next year but the decision has to be made. I will be spraying the aircraft myself for simple economic reasons and am currently digging through the RV blogs to see how they have tackled the task. 

It will be 2 - pack sprayed with a HVLP sprayer in a homemade plastic spray booth built in the hangar. I am looking at the idea of suspending the aircraft from my electric hoist on the roof with a custom spreader to lift it up for access to the underside. Spraying upside down on your back is akin to uphand welding - strictly for the experts.

Back to the wings, fuel line seats etc etc ........

Rivet Heads

This blog cover the filling of the pop rivets

Overview
After viewing a Sling at AUSFly 2015 I had to do a double take and ask if it was solid riveted. The answer was NO, it was explained that the factory filled each rivet with epoxy micro with a toothpick and sanded after curing.


Installation
Returning to the home base I was still struck with rivet envy, so starting with a small quantity of lightweight filler was applied with a syringe fitted with a needle.  Before use the sharp point was removed using a small grinder.

Purchased from farm supply chain CRT - $9 for the box

The filler was small batches of West Systems 105 resin with the slow hardener. This was mixed with a small amount of blue powder pigment to improve visibility. The needle was inserted into the rivet opening with just enough pressure to allow a continuous drop to be formed at the top between each application with a paper towel at the ready to wipe any excess from the needle. This process is quick with the whole elevator taking about 30 minutes for one side.

The fresh adhesive was first applied to horizontal surfaces as it went off the vertical surface were then filled. 

Rivets filled ready to sand

The vertical surfaces were done with the left over from the horizontal surfaces. When it had begun to gel the process was repeated and as extracting the needle the excess was wiped onto the rivet with a upward motion onto the top face. 

When complete the syringe was cleaned with acetone and wiped down. A watch was set up with any runs cleaned using a towel and acetone. 

Note: After a cold night to cure only about 5% showing runs which were cleaned as described.

The application of a coloring agent is critical and coloured chalk powder was use, clear is a real trap for that reason and once cured onto the skin has to be removed mechanically.

When cured, the excess is carefully sanded off using a piece of metal equal with a hole diameter and thickness equal to the rivet for sanding. A thinner piece of plastic is used to clean the sides if required so obtaining a nice blob on the top side of a rivet saves time

Thanks to Craig at Flying Frontiers in Africa for his input and advising its took about 100 hours plus - woo hoo, happy days....!

Comment
Application was quite quick and my guess with this combination it would take a long hard day to apply resin and a lot longer to sand plus rework. The sides require small batches to be mixed, loaded into a syringe and allowed to start to gel before application.

Undertaking this on a cool night is the go as I managed to use all the resin prepared.

The short needles work well and may have helped the speed but I would make sure the resin was tinted much darker before application.

This idea was found on a RV 12 blog with much thanks.

Cockpit Painting - Part 2

What dose the picture at the side say - it has to be painted to proceed.

Rudder Pedal

As the only upholstery in a Tucano is paint therefore it's important that the painting be undertaken at the correct point to allow assembly to proceed. If left to late it requires masking and removal of installed hardware so with the side panels finished and work piling up it was decided that it's time.

The real choice was the color. My initial thoughts were to use Wayttyl SLS primer in the pale grey coated with acrylic gloss. This in fact was the combination that was used on the sticks with good results but the RS Warbird cockpit with RAF camouflage scheme just kept screaming "pick me!" and I had to listen.

The die was cast.

RS Warbirds custom cockpit

A number products were tried but the only color that was close was from Wattyl in a Epoxy Single Pack Enamel. It was decided "Machinery Grey" was the correct color and four [4] tins were purchased. 

All the cockpit walls were already in the etch primer it was expected to cover well. The primer was lightly rubbed with fine sanding pads, scouring pads, wiped with wax & grease remover then dried with a clean cloth. The spray paint was placed in the sun for about an hour to warm up, then the painting began at the firewall and stopped at the baggage compartment bulkhead. A drop sheet was applied over the top of the cockpit and the area allowed to dry until tack free, about eight [8] hours. Once the cover was removed a smooth high gloss was revealed. This paint requires 24 hours or longer to dry and in any thicker areas it may take a week or more.

With the paint dry, assembly of the rudder pedals and other hardware can now proceed. The downside is all new brackets, panels have to be fully painted before installation with the associated drying time. 

Panel
Grey was quite a rebel color when used 20 years ago so is black the new grey?  With the a "Spitano" theme black fit's, so a satin black finish for the panel and top side cockpit frame is appropriate.