Overview
The use of a camouflage paint scheme created some need to be seen in the real world, so the addition of lights was required, even for VFR operation. Also, after considering mounting methods, it was decided to glue the lens to the tip to avoid the risk of cracking.
Installation
With the fibreglass wingtips covered in a previous blog, the final task was to install and connect the lights.
Opening for lens cut using Dremel cutting disc Edge is approximately 12 mm wide |
Aluminium 2024-T3 0.020"" covers used to match the profile of tip Short cover [no tab] slips through the tip while the other rests on the edge allowing glueing |
Covers painted with gloss black. A pair of M3 rivet nuts were fitted to the removable cover to allow the screws to be removed from the inside of the tip |
The next task was to fit a LED Navigation / Strobe LED pack onto the fixed cover. It was decided to tap the brass inserts for mounting M4. To do this, the hole was enlarged to 3.4 mm to minimise drag while providing enough holding force.
The model selected was Aveo Powerburst Daylight Set in Red & Green.
These were connected to the wing loom using a four [4] pin Molex plug.
Note: Selecting lights again the builder would look for a model that allows rear fixing
The factory lens is a vacuum formed profile combining both lenses for both wings. An initial cut is provided, and this completed to separate the cover into two separate pieces. One is then placed onto the tip, and the first cutting edge marked using a Sharpie pen. This was cut using a set of sharp decal scissors, checked and sanded using 120 wet n dry to the marks.
Marking initial cutting edge with Sharpie |
Cutting edge - A denotes location relative to faring |
Trimmed and sanded using 80 grit garnet paper Edge marked allowing cutting edge to be located |
Establishing a final sanding edge |
The recess of the tip was filed to provide a constant depth and edge all around the tip.
After a final check, a 5 mm bead of Parfix Acrylic Urethane Sealant/Adhesive was applied on the centre of the tip recess then smoothed to an even coating. The transparent cover was expanded at the far edge and inserted over the tip and aligned then several pieces of 40 mm masking tape were applied to hold it in position to cure.
Lens glued to faring Covered with tape to allow the edge to be worked into the adhesive |
With the masking tape removed the edge was prepared for the painting to cover the adhesive attachment with the cover masked to fully cover the attachment point plus 2-3 mm over.
The paint used was Krylon Fusion Plastic paint, black spray can. This was applied in three [3] light coats and once dry all the tape and paper was removed.
Note: The painted area is confined to the area of attachment to avoid overheating the cover and to ensure as much support as possible on a hot day
The backing sheet has an M3 rivet nut and screw installed to provide a handle to assist in the removal for cleaning.
Finished |
The finished assembly was cleaned and polished with Mr Sheen Spray polish that gave a clean sparkle to the construction, smells nice too.
Comment
The biggest issue was the original decision to mount the light from the front, and this required the tapping the brass inserts M4 as the only possible access for mounting is from the rear.
Doing it again the plate for the attachment of the light would be 0.025'' 2024-T3 with a 0.020'' for the backing plate. The thicker sheet would be just stiffer to mount the backing plate; also, it would be folded in the opposite direction as this would provide improved access for cleaning and servicing.
Postscript
Tapped the factory bushes using an M4 tapered tap, installation used M4 x 12mm button head screws.
No comments:
Post a Comment