Installing Hose Ends
The lines are fabricated from a teflon line covered in a S/S webbing. Cutting this material was is difficult without the factory tool.
The area to be cut was wrapped tightly in two ]2] layers of masking tape, placed on an aluminium bar then cut with a 25 mm wood chisel and 12 oz hammer. The end is crushed by this operation and is rounded using a pair of flat nose pliers.
At this point it is critical that the nut be fitted over the hose if the mesh flares just slightly it proved impossible. The nut was rotated over the tape and once fitted the tape was removed. The end was flared using a sharp pick and the nylon dressed square and finally the ferrel was fitted, tapped on using a soft hammer until flush with the end of the tube.
The nut is moved forward then checked that it will rotate freely in its maximum forward position without being fitted.
There is no slippage once the nut is tightened so connecting fittings straight to straight proved impossible.
Straight fittings are fitted first by tightening the nut onto the fitting while allowing the hose to rotate freely, next at the elbow end a dry fitting is conducted. The fitting was wound in by hand until it bottoms, if it did not align with the mounting position the nut was rotated until this was achieved.
The fitting is now removed with the nut wound back about 270 degrees and the tread coated with a light wipe of liquid teflon from Permintax. The fitting is now install and wound up tight by hand then finally tightened with a 12 mm hydraulic spanner until the fitting aligned with mounting point.
If it it did not align the fitting was removed and the nut adjusted again and the operation repeated.
Note: The liquid tape was used to prevent galling and assist sealing
The banjo nut was installed and thread coated with liquid teflon, then torqued using a 13 mm spanner until the fitting will not rotate.
The area to be cut was wrapped tightly in two ]2] layers of masking tape, placed on an aluminium bar then cut with a 25 mm wood chisel and 12 oz hammer. The end is crushed by this operation and is rounded using a pair of flat nose pliers.
At this point it is critical that the nut be fitted over the hose if the mesh flares just slightly it proved impossible. The nut was rotated over the tape and once fitted the tape was removed. The end was flared using a sharp pick and the nylon dressed square and finally the ferrel was fitted, tapped on using a soft hammer until flush with the end of the tube.
The nut is moved forward then checked that it will rotate freely in its maximum forward position without being fitted.
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| Brass Ferrule fitted |
There is no slippage once the nut is tightened so connecting fittings straight to straight proved impossible.
Straight fittings are fitted first by tightening the nut onto the fitting while allowing the hose to rotate freely, next at the elbow end a dry fitting is conducted. The fitting was wound in by hand until it bottoms, if it did not align with the mounting position the nut was rotated until this was achieved.
The fitting is now removed with the nut wound back about 270 degrees and the tread coated with a light wipe of liquid teflon from Permintax. The fitting is now install and wound up tight by hand then finally tightened with a 12 mm hydraulic spanner until the fitting aligned with mounting point. If it it did not align the fitting was removed and the nut adjusted again and the operation repeated.
Note: The liquid tape was used to prevent galling and assist sealing
The banjo nut was installed and thread coated with liquid teflon, then torqued using a 13 mm spanner until the fitting will not rotate.
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