This builder only has access to battery tools which operate at much lower rpm compared to air operated toosl shown in the video below. Their advantage is they are relatively quite and are ready to use on demand. An unstated advantage is that most people that surround us are unlikely to be in love with your compressor running to provide air on demand.
Note: Set the clutch at it lowest setting to ensure that if there is the slightest increase in load it should release the clutch. Ensure the battery has a good charge to provide maximum revs.
Select a sharp drill that is slightly smaller than the head of the rivet to be removed. Drill to about the point shown and at this point pulse the drill as it is close to breaking the head free. Keep drilling using small pluses until the head breaks free.
Note: For the 3.2 mm rivets a 4.5 mm drill works well
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| Drill Rivet |
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| Stop & Pulse Drill from here |
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| Head sheared off |
Remove the rivet using a small punch to drive out the mandrel or if you have access to the rear of the rivet remove with a pair of side cutters with a rolling action.
Generally this works but this builder found the rivets that secured the skin at the top longeron were another case [location shown above]. After a number of blows of ever increasing force, it was clear the lack of structural rigidity was not allowing the blows to do their work and there was NO rear access.
At this point it was decided to resort to the drill, not the favored option as you can loose control easily. Punch out the mandrel with a 1.5 mm punch then drilled out the stem using a sharp 2.5 mm drill until it breaks free, generally before reaching its end - little force is required just great care.
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